Eau de AI – how Synthetic Intelligence will help discover your fragrance character

Within the ‘Vogue, Perfume & the Future‘ version of The Scented Letter journal [sign up for the FREE online edition here] we discover the myriad ways in which Synthetic Intelligence is impacting the world of perfumery – from permitting the perfumers to give you by no means earlier than dreamed of compositions, constructing model new aroma molecules (and predicting how they’ll scent), to extra sustainable methods of rising, harvesting, distilling and creating scents, proper all the way down to the design and advertising of the perfumes.



Because the AI market grows in leaps and bounds, seemingly each day, we wished to elaborate on one other thrilling (and completely fascinating) use of AI in perfumery: serving to YOU select your subsequent new perfume.



We’ve lengthy been proponents of expertise aiding clients on this usually complicated start line – many years in the past, our Co-Founder Lorna McKay helped arrange an in-store pc system to assist clients of Liberty’s perfumery hunt down their subsequent scents; an thought WAY forward of its time that (then) printed out strategies, which The Fragrance Society then massively added to and was our on-line Discover a Perfume helper.

Eager to smell out the newest expertise, some months in the past, I used to be fortunate sufficient to be invited by Scent Futurist and advisor, Olivia Jezler, to attend the primary European demonstration of an AI system designed by Japan’s SCENTMATIC Company. Merely put, they clarify:

“Discovering a fragrance is a problem. Fragrances are exhausting to know, and expressing our preferences will be robust. KAORIUM by SCENTMATIC is a wholly novel method to perfume exploration that decodes the enigmatic world of scents and helps folks uncover new fragrances intuitively via language. Harnessing state-of-the-art expertise, our mission is to ship olfactory moments of enjoyment.”

Already in-store in some Japanese area of interest perfumeries, the AI works interactively via a desk show. The shopper is guided via sniffing some scents based mostly on how they’re feeling (or need a perfume to assist them really feel) by suggesting some preliminary scents to ‘blind sniff’ (scent with out figuring out the identify, model, or components) and asking questions. Narrowing down the probabilities based mostly in your solutions then spotlights three scented strategies from differing homes to hunt out in-store – the vary instructed being uniquely tailor-made to the manufacturers every retailer shares.




“KAORIUM is a singular, revolutionary AI system that digitises the sense of scent and allows clients to expertise fragrances via a digital blind-smelling expertise. With KAORIUM, clients can intuitively uncover scents by counting on a guided AI-powered olfactory expertise that culminates in a poetic reveal of their chosen scents.”

My immediate was: ‘River breeze carrying the sound of fireworks’

Fragrances KAORIUM instructed for me:


(Restful) The Home of Oud, The Time

THOO say: ‘This composition is an invite to practise introspection: the prelude is Bergamot in an accord with Camomile and the calm of Wormwood, whose heat, woody notice shields and reassures. Blue Tea, Iris and Verbena are the throbs of a coronary heart that doesn’t mark the passing of time, however expands it to infinity, wrapping us in a dimension of care and respect. With the expressive pressure of Cedarwood, Musks and Amber, the bottom receives the valuable, dynamising notes of Black Tea.’

From £33 for 7ml eau de parfum [Exclusive to Jovoy Mayfair in the U.K.]






(Tranquil) Laboratorio Olfattivo, Sacreste

‘A posh and wealthy system, created to offer voice to 2 valuable incense notes which instantly tie with Cistus, Elemi and different spicy components which seem on the highest notes and on a woody musky base. A sensual and profound incense: a fragrance with character.’

£108 for 100ml eau de parfum pulseofperfumery.com




(Lucid) Stora Skuggan, Silphium

‘Silphium (most likely of the genus Ferula) was a plant that grew within the space of Cyrene, current day Libya, and was broadly famend as a spice, medicinal herb and fragrance ingredient all through the empires of the classical antiquity. It was praised by Greek philosophers and writers, in addition to Roman emperors and cookbook authors.’

£120 for 30ml eau de parfum earlofeast.com


I already knew I adored The Time and Sacreste, so these have been certainly glorious strategies, and I’ve since sought-out and quite fallen for Silphium. Fairly other than this being a enjoyable factor to do in-store (who doesn’t like getting issues ‘matched’ to them in personality-based quizzes?) AI experiences equivalent to KAORIUM generally is a genuinely useful start line for each these newer to area of interest perfumery and overwhelmed by (or nervous to attempt) the massive number of scents clamouring for our consideration. This positively is to not counsel such gadgets ought to (or might) put the well-trained and enthusiastic perfume specialists in shops out of a job, quite that it really works alongside them – simply because the AI programmes perfumers use are an help to their experience quite than a substitute for his or her expertise, and emotional understanding of what individuals are on the lookout for.

KAORIUM say: “…its capabilities usually are not only for the invention expertise but in addition for knowledge evaluation that can be utilized for insights and product growth.”

So, corporations may have the ability to observe what clients are choosing based mostly on their moods, permitting the database to evolve and develop based mostly on realtime experiences. That method, it may possibly be taught ever extra nuanced strategies that finest meet the wants of precise clients visiting perfumeries and never figuring out the place to start: a win-win for everybody!



Wish to be taught much more about AI and perfumery?


Written by Suzy Nightingale