Proper, final week, I made noises a few load of samples dropping by way of the door. They usually did. I acquired three samples from one supplier plus a big pattern set from a home I’m not conversant in. I used to be planning to jot down concerning the first three samples collectively. However, as soon as I began the Golestan part of the submit it grew to become clear that this wanted to be standalone. So, that’s the place we’re immediately – and the opposite two will wait until subsequent week.
Yr in the past, undecided what number of, I learn or heard about Tauer Le Maroc pour Elle and L’Air du Desert Marocain, his first fragrances made for a neighborhood pal’s store, and got down to get samples. Duly arrived, tried the Le Maroc. Good. Then most likely subsequent day sprayed on LDDM.
A kind of ‘oh my’ moments, however a little bit of a mind squeeze. I’d spray it on and scent and be drawn in again and again, like I did this for days, attempting to determine what I discovered so godawful compelling. As a result of it wasn’t particular notes that stood out. It was that general scent on me. I gave up after some time and simply accepted that I adored it.
I had considered one of my ‘I’m at free ends, I would like some samples’ numerous weeks in the past. I had seen one thing on Golestan and on one thing else that piqued my curiosity, so I went trying. I used to be capable of order each at a new-to-me pattern website right here referred to as Tiny Fragrances. Respectable mixture of stuff; good CS.
So, the parcel confirmed up and Golestan was the very first thing I attempted.
This was launched final yr (ie, 2022). First couple of samplings, this was a severe conundrum. It doesn’t scent of the notes listing on me, at the very least for the primary few hours, and I spent the instances I sampled it attempting to tease out particular person notes with out quite a lot of luck earlier than principally giving up and simply having fun with the experience. As a result of it’s a really attention-grabbing experience. And I used to be reminded of the expertise I’d had with L’Air du Desert Marocain all these years in the past.
The backstory on Golestan is Andy Tauer visiting a bit of the Louvre he hadn’t been to earlier than, protecting the Persian empires and historical past. The go to sparked extra analysis, resulting in discovery of a palace referred to as Golestan constructed within the 16th century in Iran, which was also called the Rose Backyard Palace – resulting in this fragrance.
Edifice of the Solar part of the Golestan Palace
Per the Tauer website, “the fragrance of a flower backyard”. Notes embrace ylang, bergamot, lemon zest, tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, Damask rose, ambergris, vanilla, patchouli, woody notes and cistus incanus (under).
What a listing! However on me, this smells of what I ended up, after a little bit of head-spinningness, labelling historical mud (this was earlier than I learn the backstory, so I don’t really feel I used to be influenced).
As quickly as I received my first whiff off the wrist I went on the lookout for a overview from the primary Perfumes: The Information about Guerlain Behavior Rouge as a result of I recalled the subheader having one thing to do with mud (turned out to be ‘candy mud’) and I needed to substantiate that what I used to be smelling made some type of aromachemical sense. Per Luca Turin, that mud ‘sense’ derives from an orange blossom and oppoponax accord. A tough barely floral scratchy mud scent. Okay, thanks, that helps. There’s orange blossom on this, however not oppoponax. So, I questioned if the combo that led me to scent mud could be the mentholated facet of tuberose and/or the ‘wooden notes’ or the cistus incantus, which is listed as having a woody herbaceous aroma.
This smells on me like how I might think about the air round an historical website smells. However possibly someplace in Greece with that floral herbaceous scent you get within the hills. As I mentioned above, I’ve bother teasing out notes on this – till it begins to dry down. So, for the primary few hours I simply get that uncanny mud facet.
Apparently, on paper, I discovered it a lot simpler to delineate completely different notes, getting a fruitier, lighter fragrance, with one thing candied.
In any case, that is attractive. It’s lengthy lived on my pores and skin, and solely hours into its growth do I begin to get the Tauer-ade (that amber incensy sweetness). In any other case, it’s that other-worldly mud which is decidedly not candy and after some time I feel I can discern orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose, however I could be making that up.
Oh, and earlier than I neglect, the bottle artwork is gorgeous: a tackle Persian flower work. I wasn’t massively taken with the artwork on the Sundowner bottle (very a lot preferred the perfume), however that is pretty.
So, that is extrait de parfum, 50ml and round £165 right here. On to the ‘need’ listing it goes.
Anybody else smelled this? Ideas?
Pics: Golestan bottle pic with permission of Tauer Perfumes. Others wiki